What Kind of oil do you run in your Bike?

[Sweetruss]

Do you guys/gals have an opinion on the oil you run in your bikes? I've got an 02 and run honda oil. I change my oil regualarly so do I really need to think about running synthetic oil? Does anyone benifet from synthetic oil enough to pay the difference if you constantly change your oil.

[MrDude_1]

i picked extra virgin..... even though i know shes really a dirty little slu..... uhh... what were we talking about?

[MrDude_1]

lol, seriously though.. heres my opinion on it.


if you have a engine where the clutch is submerged... synthetics are very hit and miss.. the very additives (like moly)that make them great, can make the clutch slip... because of this, people generally shy away from them... this is NOT because of the synthetic base stock, but rather from the additive package.

if the engine shares the oil with the transmission.. the amount of sheer on the oil will require short interval oil changes, nomatter what. thats just the nature of it.
because of this, alot of the benefits seen from synthetic packages are not there.. plus theres the cost factor.... so it tends to make people say.. "just change the oil often and not worry about running a non-synthetic"

if the engine oil does not touch the clutch.... there is a large beifit from running a modern oil that contains moly.... but there are very few bikes that fit this criteria...


really, what it comes down to for most bikes, like yours.... run a good MOTORCYCLE oil, or a compatible oil and change it often.... dont run a modern car oil... unless you enjoy changing clutches.

[Mike]

Rotella T dino every 5000 miles on my new FJR, old FJR, and old 954 has worked well for me.

[burns]

Out of 2 bikes I have got over 100,000 miles using mobil 1 5w30 fully synthetic motor oil. Never had a problem.

[Nash]

Waiting for DJ's comments....

[burns]

Waiting for DJ's comments....

Why is that Mr.Nash???? You do not remember what you are using? :smilebig:

[jason 41]

What would kevin say?

[Nash]

I've used all kinds of oil over the years, but I mostly try to use full synthetic.

DJ (Hammer69) is the oil guru! He does know his oil.

[CBRjunkie]

Motul 300VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV

[the_MAC]

i swear by mobil1 synthetic. i use it in all my cars, used it on both 'vette's i had, and use it in all my bikes (and i ran '0' weight in the race bikes) without ever having them screw up the clutches. as 'dude' said, the additives in oil, whether synthetic or conventional, are what can mess up a wet clutch. mobil1 is used in indy and other racing where the engine/trans share oil, and they don't seem to have a problem (although it can be argued that these engines/transmissions are rebuilt after every race...). i also still change my oil WAAAAYYY too often, even though i use synthetic oil. sure its a bit more expensive, but i don't lose any sleep at night and have no doubt about raping the engine at 12-15K rpms on a 90 degree day at the track. the main reason i swear by synthetic oil is that all the oil molecules are engineered to be the same size, whereas in any conventional oil, the molecules differ in size. on a high performance engine (i.e., motorcycle, racecar, jet engine) this would be the equivalent of running bearings with variable clearances, which would obviously be considered 'bad'...also, they never change the oil in a jet engine...wonder why that is?? :twocents:


...as another arguable side note, van singley (the ducati north american rep who knows a rediculous amount about the inner workings of a duc) once told shad and i that one of the best oils to run in an engine is synthetic diesel truck oil. since commercial trucks are not subject to the same epa standards as all of our vehicles, you get the benefit of a synthetic oil AND all of the additives that are good for your engine but were taken out of commercialized automotive oils because they were bad for the environment.

[the_MAC]

Motul 300VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV

the most overpriced, over-rated oil money can buy...and it stinks like sh*t!!

[thehammer69]

Waiting for DJ's comments....

As Mike has already mentioned.... Shell Rotella T in the dino 15w-40 weight is one of the best choices going. If somebody must have synthetic because they think it is going to make a difference, then Shell Rotella-T in the synthetic 5w-40 weight. I used to recommend Chevron Delo-400 15w-40 but since they started adding moly when they switched to the CI-4+ chemistry, I don't recommend it any more.

Rotella 15w-40 can be found just about everywhere. Rotella synthetic 5w-40 can be found at Wal Mart.

Hammer

[thehammer69]

i swear by mobil1 synthetic. i use it in all my cars, used it on both 'vette's i had, and use it in all my bikes (and i ran '0' weight in the race bikes) without ever having them screw up the clutches. as 'dude' said, the additives in oil, whether synthetic or conventional, are what can mess up a wet clutch. mobil1 is used in indy and other racing where the engine/trans share oil, and they don't seem to have a problem (although it can be argued that these engines/transmissions are rebuilt after every race...).

My bike is a perfect example of a bike that can't use mobil-1. I used to use it exclusively in my bike and the starter clutch started to slip with it. It got to the point that i could NOT start my bike if mobil-1 is used in it, including their motorcycle oil. The starter would just spin without engine rotation. At that time, I made a switch to Motul motorcycle oils and the bike would start again. But then through research I discovered that Heavy Duty Engine Oils (diesel truck oils) would be perfect for motorcycle use as they don't have an energy conserving additive pack that makes oil too slippery but use an additive pack that is extremely robust and designed for extreme engine protection. They are also designed for use with gears as almost all modern heavy duty diesels have an intricate gear set-up for their cam drives and accessory drives.

Hammer

[Nash]

Exactly which diesel truck oil are you guys talking about? And would it matter with a dry clutch?

[Mike]

Exactly which diesel truck oil are you guys talking about? And would it matter with a dry clutch?

Uhhh... Rotella T? :smilebig:

[thehammer69]

Exactly which diesel truck oil are you guys talking about? And would it matter with a dry clutch?

Since you have a dry clutch...I would run Chevron Delo-400 15w-40.

Hammer

[the_MAC]

Exactly which diesel truck oil are you guys talking about? And would it matter with a dry clutch?


the guy didn't recommend any specific brand, just that they are different/better than the commercial auto oils. since he is a ducati guy, he recommends some shell oil that ducati uses, but i don't that believe that specific type is available in the states. ducati uses synthetic in all their bikes, though...

I also use mobil1. however considering jumping ship. i like the castrol stuff. always worked real good for me. The guys on zx-10r.net were discussing this recently if you have slipper clutches the full on sythetic is not your best freind. {exept mobile 1} Most full sythertic "we will clean your motor" oils have detergents in them witch will harm your clutch fibers. Plane jane mobil 1 is just oil but if you go to walmatrt you will see "mobil 1 with detergents" this is not a good thing for your bikes clutch fibers.
BTW burns why so thin? your bikes recomended oil is at least 10w. 5w in this heat could thin out FAST. FYI

What would kevin say?
LOL sounds like a new bumper sticker "WWKD?" lol

[thehammer69]

I also use mobil1. however considering jumping ship. i like the castrol stuff. always worked real good for me. The guys on zx-10r.net were discussing this recently if you have slipper clutches the full on sythetic is not your best freind. {exept mobile 1} Most full sythertic "we will clean your motor" oils have detergents in them witch will harm your clutch fibers. Plane jane mobil 1 is just oil but if you go to walmatrt you will see "mobil 1 with detergents" this is not a good thing for your bikes clutch fibers.
BTW burns why so thin? your bikes recomended oil is at least 10w. 5w in this heat could thin out FAST. FYI

I'm sorry but what you have posted about Mobil-1 is totally inaccurate. I realize you are passing on information that you read elsewhere, but it is still bad information. BTW, all modern engine oils have detergents. And the HDEO's (heavy duty engine oil) have more than most and they are NOT hurting clutch fibers. What is hurting the clutches is the "energy conserving" friction modifiers in the additive pack that Mobil-1 uses. I guarentee if you try Rotella Synthetic 5w-40 that you will not have any clutch issues unless you are just plain abusive with your clutch, which then it is not an oil problem. I personally have turned a local ZX-10 owner on to the Rotella synthetic and he says it works just fine.

Hammer

[MrDude_1]

heh, i didnt say it earlier.... but i also run rotellaT... mostly because i can get it at walmart...

[CBRjunkie]

and it stinks like sh*t!!

mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. Smells like candy

[CBRjunkie]

the most overpriced, over-rated oil money can buy

Just because I have two motors blow up using it is no reason to call it names. But atleast the clutch plates looked good even if the rod was ticking out of the case. :eek:

[the_MAC]

BTW burns why so thin? your bikes recomended oil is at least 10w. 5w in this heat could thin out FAST. FYI


recommended tire pressure from the manufacturer is something like 38psi, but none of us follow that, either...lol!! i think 'recommended' is more of a catch phrase for the manufacturer for legal liabilities (maybe not, but it sounds good...). and the thinning out from high temperature you're talking about is called thermal viscosity breakdown, but running thinner oil doesn't always mean it will break down from heat. every oil has a temperature range that it is designed/formulated to operate in. regardless of the weight of the oil, if you're operating in its temperature range it should not suffer from thermal breakdown. also, you have to read the whole viscosity rating in steve's post: 5w30. this means that when the oil is cold, it has the viscosity of 5 weight, but when it reaches operating temperature it has the viscous properties of a 30 weight oil of the same temperature due to other additives (called polymers) in the oil. you can also use a thinner synthetic oil in a given application than conventional oil, so 5w30 mobil1 would be fine. every race i ever ran on my 600rr and f3 (yes, the one you bought from me...) was run on 0w30 oil, and both bikes are still running like champs (not to mention they're both hondas!!). the arguable point to running a thinner oil is that your engine won't have to work as hard to push it and use the power elsewhere, but at our level i'm sure that doesn't matter, and at operating temperature they're rated at the same viscosity, anyway. if you live somewhere that really gets cold, though, you'll appreciate a thinner oil at colder temperatures, or else you might not get your vehicle started!! hope this clears up any questions there, randy...we're here for your needs

[ccs273]

Mobil one 0w-30 full syn!!!!!!!!!!

[burns]

Get you some of the BG OIL Shane!!
The race team uses a 0 weight by BG, That stuff is a few hundred bucks a gallon. As for the bikes that come in here for builds they get Valvoline full synthetic 5w30.

[Nash]

Uhhh... Rotella T? :smilebig:

This is one topic I don't know well enough. You guys start spatting off names of diesel truck oil and I'm lost. I've mostly used Mobil 1 in my Z06 and Trailblazer with no problems. I've only used the Honda (without Moly) oil the recent years in my bikes. Lately, I just call DJ and the current 411 on all oil questions.

[MrDude_1]

I've mostly used Mobil 1 in my Z06 and Trailblazer with no problems.

werd! that stuff is fuggin amazing in LS1s... 120,000 miles, and the crosshatches are still there, no gunk, and its like new inside.. only slightly golden... good shit. :wtg:

[ccs273]

steve I did use that stuff when I was there, I know about the BG( really good stuff)

[Turbo storm]

In my old dino bike (1984 Kaw 750 Turbo), the cam chain guides, and the cush drive on the cluth basket are not compatible with the additive packs in synthetic oils. I know this now...due to experience. I now run Castrol GTX oil, or Valvoline VR racing oil.
I ride a dinosaur, guess I gotta use dino oil.

[JAFO]

Rotella synthetic. 15W40 IIRC the weight.

I'm kinda an oil geek. I've put way too much thought into oil in my vehicles. I'm running an extgernal fullflow filter with a parallel'd bypass filtration setup on transmission and engine of all my 4-wheeled vehicles, and the same diesel oil in the engines.

[SUM650]

It's about time I guess for this topic to pop up here. The which oil topic comes up on every forum that I have been on for at least the past decade or so. I am no oil expert for sure, but the hammer69 is right on all points from what I have been reading over the years. The shell rotella 15w40 dino and the mobil 1 fully syn. motorcycle oil always seem to top every oil test that I have seen. These two oils are always on the top recommended by every oil topic forum that I have read over the past few years. Let me not forget, the Amsoil always does good to.

I personally don't think it makes much of a difference if you change your oil on a regular basis. Meaning before it breaks down. On my sportbikes and race bikes I use all types of oil and I see no difference. Sometimes I use mobil 1 syn., sometimes I use quaker state, sometimes I use Wally World oil or shell rotella. It just depends on my mood. I honestly don't see a difference in performance one way or another.

Now with stuff that I really like like my truck and crusier, they only get the best, Mobil 1 fully syn. baby! BWT the same topic is being hashed on the R1 forum as well. Here is some good info from that topic that I pasted and the link.

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205181



Heres what Mobil has to say about it....

Question:
Any Reason Not to Use Mobil 1 Extended Performance in Motorcycles with Wet Clutches
Is there any reason that Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15W-50 Gold Cap shouldn't be used in a motorcycle with a wet clutch? Some additives in automotive oils that reduce friction are bad for a wet clutch.
-- John Gardner, San Diego, CA

Answer:
ExxonMobil’s primary recommendation for wet clutch applications is Mobil 1 Motorcycle Oil which is specifically designed to minimize the effects of friction modifiers contained in typical engine oils. These are have been optimized for the performance experienced in motorcycles including those with wet clutches.

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Old 07-12-2007, 11:31 AM #15
RollingThunder

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Question:
Difference Between Car and Motorcycle Oils
What is the difference from motorcycle oil than car oil?

Answer:
Motorcycle oils and passenger car oils are very similar, with the exception of a couple of areas that are key to motorcycle operation. The first area concerns common sumps, or the use of motor oil, to lubricate and cool the transmission. As you know, in a passenger car the transmission is lubricated by an ATF fluid, which has frictional properties required for transmission operation. In a motorcycle, where the transmission may be lubricated by the engine oil, an engine oil that does not have the same level of friction modification (for fuel economy) of a typical passenger car engine oil will provide better transmission performance in terms of transmission lock-up and slippage. So motorcycle engine oil does not contain the friction modifiers of a passenger car engine oil. The second area of concern for motorcycle engine oils is that they tend to shear (breakdown viscosity) more quickly than a typical passenger car. Mobil 1 motorcycle oils are designed to provide exceptional protection against viscosity loss.

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Old 07-12-2007, 11:32 AM #16
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Myth: Motorcycles can't benefit from synthetic oil.

Reality:
Motorcycles are an ideal application for synthetic oil. ExxonMobil offers three fully synthetic motor oils for motorcycles:
Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 is recommended for on-road, high-performance, 4-cycle sport bikes, which are typically liquid cooled. It can also be used in air-cooled engines calling for a 10W-40 oil.
Mobil 1 V-Twin is a 20W-50 oil recommended for 4-cycle V-twin engines, particularly those that are air cooled and tend to run hotter than other types of engines.
Mobil 1 Racing 2T is recommended for two-cycle motorcycle engines that specify the use of a pre-mix, two-cycle engine oil.

Last edited by RollingThunder : 07-12-2007 at 11:33 AM. Reason: edit

[JAFO]

important note:

oil does not "break down". It gets full of contaminants and the additive package TBN (total base number) decreases (ie: the additive package breaks down).

On the wife's jeep, I haven't changed the oil in over 70,000 miles. I'm running rotella synth, fullflow filtration by Purolator, and a bypass filter (using, of all things, toilet paper as a depth-fitration media. Sounds crazy, right? Guess what laboratories use to filter chemicals- a "spirally wound, fibrous core, cellulose depth-filtration element". That's scientist-speak for "a roll of flippin' toilet paper!". The cheap stuff, single ply and tightly wound, is the best).

I change the bypass filter every 3 months (cost- about $0.20) which of course means I lose about a quart and a half of oil- so I top it off (replenishes the additive package TBN!). I change the fullflow filter once a year (cause it's not doing anything at this point! :) )at a cost of $5 and another quart of oil. I run a UOA (used oil analysis) every 6 months and they send me back a report telling me what they found, what it means to me as a layman (ie: "lots of nickel content-- this is babbit material in your bearings. You're looking at new main bearings and a crank soon"- but that was another vehicle's report from the web, mine is fine), and whether I should change the oil.

So all told-- I put 5 quarts ($15, if I don't shop) of oil in the jeep every year in my 6-quart sump 4.0, I change 4 rolls of TP and a fullflow filter (cost about $6 total), and spend about $30 on oil analysis. The wife drives the hell out of the thing (lots of short trips- the hardest service for an engine) and there's just entirely not a problem at all. :wtg:

yes, I know it sounds nuts to use TP as an oil filter. Talk to an old-timer sometime, then do the research on www.bobistheoilguy.com in the bypass forum. There's an old saying "if it sounds stupid but works, it ain't stupid".

EDIT: should add, due to leaking valve stems (known issue on the 4.0) she does burn about a half-quart in 3000 miles. But it's really not a huge issue. If it became one I'd pull and rebuild the head. Instead, once I get her talked into it, I'm swapping in a Cummins 4BT turbodiesel and she'll get 40MPG on vegetable oil. :evillaugh:

[SUM650]

Damn, you must have a lot of time on your hands! Hell I'd just pay wal-mart $15 bucks every 3 months or so to change the oil/filter and be done with it.

This is exactly why I have a problem with buying used vehicles. BTW what year jeep is this that you have never ever changed the oil in?

Sometimes I have to question when people know more than the researchers and developers who invented the product to start with. But hey, it obviously works for you so hats off to you man.

[Mike]

I've had a similar experience to JAFO. I might even have posted about it here a long while back, but in case I didn't...

10,000+ miles (or was it 12,000+... can't remember), a dyno tune (several very hard runs at 18-20 psi, then a fine-tune street run), several drags at the strip, and a hard Gap day or two, on my WRX with Amsoil in it. Blackstone labs came back with data that the oil would still be good for another 5,000 miles (of similar driving, mind you). Simply put, just changing the filter, and topping off is enough to revitalize quality oil, with no real need for full oil changes.

[JAFO]

Damn, you must have a lot of time on your hands! Hell I'd just pay wal-mart $15 bucks every 3 months or so to change the oil/filter and be done with it.

This is exactly why I have a problem with buying used vehicles. BTW what year jeep is this that you have never ever changed the oil in?

Sometimes I have to question when people know more than the researchers and developers who invented the product to start with. But hey, it obviously works for you so hats off to you man.

you could not pay me enough to let Walmart or any chain store work on my car. In fact, I've let one which will remain nameles (they claim to work in a jiffy) touch my car twice in 18 years. Each time I was stuck with a huge repair bill to fix their fuckup.

My wife's jeep is a 94. bought in 00. It's in very good shape (could use a paintjob, but even then it's not terrible).

It's not a matter of me knowing more than the inventors and researchers. They KNOW this works. I didn't invent it, I'm following other people's experience and research here.

the reason automakers don't include this sort of filtration? "Planned obsolesence". If you sell everyone a car that lasts for 20 years, who are you going to sell a new car to every year?

It's a matter of avoiding the status quo and educating yourself. Not saying folks who don't do this are not smart- it works for them, great. But if you think the average guy working at Jiffy Lube, et al, is a mechanic, you're nuts. I wouldn't even call them parts changers.

[JAFO]

I've had a similar experience to JAFO. I might even have posted about it here a long while back, but in case I didn't...

10,000+ miles (or was it 12,000+... can't remember), a dyno tune (several very hard runs at 18-20 psi, then a fine-tune street run), several drags at the strip, and a hard Gap day or two, on my WRX with Amsoil in it. Blackstone labs came back with data that the oil would still be good for another 5,000 miles (of similar driving, mind you). Simply put, just changing the filter, and topping off is enough to revitalize quality oil, with no real need for full oil changes.

:nods: Blackstone labs- -who I use. Great folks.

I stand corrected-- it's 58,000 miles. Still, not bad for no oil drains, eh?

Don't suppose it'll help when I mention that once I get the Jeep (my jeep,not hers) running diesel, I'll be burning the oil I squeeze out of the filter in my engine, will it? :)

Diesels really are amazing engines. Hell, I believe it was just last year an Audi diesel won the 24 Hours of LeMans!

[JAFO]

another thing to note:

it has been demonstrated in the media that very often the services you pay for aren't rendered. IE: company welded the drainplug to the pan, marks the filter, sends the truck in for service. Get it back, check out the vehicle that had "oil changed, new filter installed". Sure enough, drainbolt is still in place and welded, and the same filter is in place. Which means the SOB's pulled your car into the bay, raised the hood, banged wrenches around and smoked a joint in the pit, and charged you $50 to not render the service you paid them for.

[the_MAC]

oil does not "break down".

um, it DOES break down...at high temperatures, too thin an oil experiences shearing and too thick an oil is subject to tearing

[JAFO]

oil does not "break down".

um, it DOES break down...at high temperatures, too thin an oil experiences shearing and too thick an oil is subject to tearing

- which, of course, is why you use the proper weight of oil for the engine and conditions.

[thehammer69]

Just for shits and giggles...I figured I would pose a question for you guys...

You go to the store and you are staring at two 5-quart jugs of regular synthetic Mobil-1...one is 5w-30 and the other is 10w-30...Assuming both meet the recommended viscosity of your engine, which oil would you choose for your car engine and why did you make that choice?

Hammer

[DK]

:wtg:

What you got Hammer ?

A solid answer .....

:lol:

[the_MAC]

Just for shits and giggles...I figured I would pose a question for you guys...

You go to the store and you are staring at two 5-quart jugs of regular synthetic Mobil-1...one is 5w-30 and the other is 10w-30...Assuming both meet the recommended viscosity of your engine, which oil would you choose for your car engine and why did you make that choice?

Hammer



for multi-vis oils, always use the most narrow span of viscosity for the temperature (climate) it will be used in

[thehammer69]

Just for shits and giggles...I figured I would pose a question for you guys...

You go to the store and you are staring at two 5-quart jugs of regular synthetic Mobil-1...one is 5w-30 and the other is 10w-30...Assuming both meet the recommended viscosity of your engine, which oil would you choose for your car engine and why did you make that choice?

Hammer



for multi-vis oils, always use the most narrow span of viscosity for the temperature (climate) it will be used in

Typically, that can be a good choice...BUT there are many times that isn't always the best choice...In the case of Mobil-1 5w-30 versus Mobil-1 10w-30, there is a few reasons that Mobil-1 5w-30 may provide superior protection...

So, anybody think they know specifics as to why I may be saying that?

Hammer

[MrDude_1]

between thoes two, id put the thinner one in.

thinner it is, the quicker it will pump at startup.. and thats where most wear occurs

since they're both modern oils, both will leave a sheer film of the same thickness, for the same length of time, regardless of viscocity.
but the 5w will pump its VOLUME around the motor quicker.




also, thinner oils take less power to pump, less windage losses, ect... but thats a secondary thing in a street car.

[mccutch2u]

I like the 0w40 lower viscosity means less friction more hp squeeze it for what you can.................but don't forget the lower viscosity will breakdown quicker especially in 15000rpm machines so the lower viscosities are only recommended for racing go with the higher viscosity of the two

[thehammer69]

Gave you guys all day and still no answer close to what I'm looking for...

Hammer

[MrDude_1]

I like the 0w40 lower viscosity means less friction more hp squeeze it for what you can.................but don't forget the lower viscosity will breakdown quicker especially in 15000rpm machines so the lower viscosities are only recommended for racing go with the higher viscosity of the two


first off.. 0w oils are factory fill on alot of cars.

second... viscosity has nothing to do with chain breakdown.

[thehammer69]

between thoes two, id put the thinner one in.

thinner it is, the quicker it will pump at startup.. and thats where most wear occurs

since they're both modern oils, both will leave a sheer film of the same thickness, for the same length of time, regardless of viscocity.
but the 5w will pump its VOLUME around the motor quicker.




also, thinner oils take less power to pump, less windage losses, ect... but thats a secondary thing in a street car.

You make a good point about 5w being better for cold start...I forgot to mention that I'm specifically looking for operating temperature performance.

Hammer

[thehammer69]

[

second... viscosity has nothing to do with chain breakdown.

:wtg:

Hammer

[mccutch2u]

who said anything about chain breakdown

[mccutch2u]

As for viscosity i have seen dyno runs back to back where the lower viscosity always had higher hp numbers also they recommend lower viscosities for a lot of the newer vehicles due to the tighter tolerances.

[mccutch2u]

The lower the starting and/or operating temperature, the lighter or thinner the selected oil should be. The higher the staring or operating temperature, the heavier or thicker the selected oil should be.
The higher the load a component is subjected to, the heavier or thicker the oil should be. The lighter the load a component is subjected to, the lighter or thinner the oil should be.
The faster the operating speed for a piece of equipment, the lighter or thinner the oil should be. The slower the operating speed for a piece of equipment, the heavier or thicker the oil should be.
There is no advantage in using heavier oil than is needed. In fact, it can be a disadvantage.

Remember, too low (thin or light) = Metal-to-metal contact (friction and wear), poor sealing and increased oil consumption. Too high (thick or heavy) = Increased fluid friction, reduced energy efficiency, higher operating temperatures and equipment starting difficulties particularly at cold temperatures.

[the_MAC]

well whenever I"M cooking, i prefer using olive oil, but on the rare occasions that i cook thai food, i like to use peanut oil...purely user prefernce, and i have no scientific data to back this up...

[MrDude_1]

well whenever I"M cooking, i prefer using olive oil, but on the rare occasions that i cook thai food, i like to use peanut oil...purely user prefernce, and i have no scientific data to back this up...

ever use pam?

[the_MAC]

ever use pam?

nah, the viscosity breaks down and my eggs stick to the pan...