Brake Advice

[t-cell]

Alright, looking for some advice – here is what I have –

A 2007 ZX10R with a spongy front brake – to correct the problem I replaced the stock brake lines with SS lines, added new Gafler pads and new brake fluid. Bleed the master cylinder then both calipers. There is a difference but still feels a little spongy, however it is not even close to the feel as my 03 ZX6R track bike with the same upgrades. Before the change in lines and pads the lever would touch the throttle - now within 1- 2 inches of the throttle. The bike stops and stops well but I don't have much confidence in it.

In 2006, Kawasaki changed/upgraded the stock master cylinder to a radial front master cylinder, which remained on the 07 model.

If this is my potential problem area, what options are out there for an upgrade to the master cylinder other than Brembo. I have nothing against Brembo, just would like to see if there are other options or recommendations to alleviate the spongy feeling.

Thanks in advance for the “buy Suzuki, Honda, Yamaha, Duc……” comments.

Jason - sends

[MrDude_1]

mine had a crappy feeling... turned out the rubber on the end of the "nipple" of the lever that contacted the front of the master cyl, had slipped.. so i was compressing the rubber into the master cyl.. squishing it...

ive also seen it feel exactly like air in the line when a sliding caliper setup wasnt centered on the disc.. it just felt spongy as it bent the disc over....

theres two things to look at if you KNOW theres no air trapped in there somewhere.

[t-cell]

Thanks for the advice - I manage to get it fixed - I ended up taking off the calipers and pressing the pistons out - then rebleed the system. I guess I had small amounts of air somewhere, but what an amazing difference.

Jason - sends

[Turbo storm]

Take off the master cylinder reservouir, and replace it with a gernade. It is dual purpose....holds fluid for the brakes, and you can threaten crappy drivers/riders with it during roadrage moments.:wave:

[Mike]

Take off the master cylinder reservouir, and replace it with a gernade. It is dual purpose....holds fluid for the brakes, and you can threaten crappy drivers/riders with it during roadrage moments.:wave:

Don't forget that the thick metal casing keeps the fluid usable, longer, protecting it from sunlight :yeah:

:hail: - Dan

[t-cell]

My luck - the damn thing would actually detonate during installation!!!

[Sweetruss]

Just so the cornerjunkies forum doesn't dissappoint you T-cell, buy a Honda!

BTW, hope all is well man.

[t-cell]

Thanks Russ - The thought crossed my mind to buy a Honda - but it would have to be a special one like a 2002 CBR 1100xx mostly stock with a Corbin seat. :smilebig:

jason - sends

[Sweetruss]

:whistle: :hail:


In the words of Special K "Oh Snap"

[DK]

Special K is my sister's nick name.

Que ?









Anyhow, always check the entire system for air if you sense sponge like feeling. This means cracking all connections at master cylinder, calipers and any other cross over. Believe it or not I have found that some of the new production radial master cylinder's supplied as OEM equipment on new bikes do have some soft feel to them even with stainless lines. They can help you when trail braking, but it only works with the correct brake pads. Some pads, like most OEM honda style pads don't bite until heated up. There is initial bite and then out of no where they grab ridiculously hard.

In other cases that you install new stainless/kevlar lines on machine with old street/road/oem brake pads, the backing/ceramic portion of the brake pad can warp. It is possible to resurface the backing plate to get them true again. In most cases once it starts to warp it's game over. Swapping out to race pad is best if you are a very aggressive street rider (Deal's gap or frequent track day guy).

It's never a bad idea to insure to seal the master cylinder cap up completely air tight by any means to aid in caliper piston return.

If you are running OEM rubber lines and have bled the system out completely and they still feel sponge like, then get out a set of needle nose pliers and apply them to the top portion of the brake line just after the master cylinder. By squeezing the pliers once surrounding the brake line they will showcase how much flex is in the brake line. Just a light touch will do. You can see the flex of your OEM brake line appear in your hand with this method. The harder you squeeze the pliers the less flex will occur and you will fell what the master cylinder is capable of feeling like without the garbage oem rubber lines.

:hic:

[Mike]

Special K = me :smilebig:

[t-cell]

Special
Anyhow, always check the entire system for air if you sense sponge like feeling. This means cracking all connections at master cylinder, calipers and any other cross over. Believe it or not I have found that some of the new production radial master cylinder's supplied as OEM equipment on new bikes do have some soft feel to them even with stainless lines. They can help you when trail braking, but it only works with the correct brake pads. Some pads, like most OEM honda style pads don't bite until heated up. There is initial bite and then out of no where they grab ridiculously hard.

In other cases that you install new stainless/kevlar lines on machine with old street/road/oem brake pads, the backing/ceramic portion of the brake pad can warp. It is possible to resurface the backing plate to get them true again. In most cases once it starts to warp it's game over. Swapping out to race pad is best if you are a very aggressive street rider (Deal's gap or frequent track day guy).

It's never a bad idea to insure to seal the master cylinder cap up completely air tight by any means to aid in caliper piston return.

If you are running OEM rubber lines and have bled the system out completely and they still feel sponge like, then get out a set of needle nose pliers and apply them to the top portion of the brake line just after the master cylinder. By squeezing the pliers once surrounding the brake line they will showcase how much flex is in the brake line. Just a light touch will do. You can see the flex of your OEM brake line appear in your hand with this method. The harder you squeeze the pliers the less flex will occur and you will fell what the master cylinder is capable of feeling like without the garbage oem rubber lines.

:hic:

Thanks DK for the great info - :yeah:

[DK]

Si,

Senior "Special K".

[Mike]

Si,

Senior "Special K".

En Espanol, sera K-Especial :lmao:

[Chad]

Your prob sir is you own a Kaw...if you had a Yamaha you would not have this prob:lol:

[t-cell]

I could see myself on an R1 with an 8 foot extended swingarm, helmet strapped to the back ridin' in Crocs (cause flip flops are for squids!!!):smilebig:

Jason - sends