View Full Version : Kaw 500 Issue
Scootimus
02-25-2009, 11:48 PM
Ok, so I picked up a bike for dirt cheap that I plan on playing with. Would like to set it up as a track bike so I don't have to worry if it falls over and what not.
Anyways, on to the problem. I got the bike started by jumping it off but as soon as I remove the cables the bike instantly dies. I'm not sure if the battery is any good since I don't know when the last time the bike actually ran was. How can I check to see if the charging system is actually working? Any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated.
Judging by what you said, you just tested the charging system (removed cables) and it failed (the bike died); just to be sure, try charging the battery for a bit and repeating the procedure. If the bike dies instantly, the battery and the charging system are probably toast.
Try to get hold of some schematics. Unplug, check (for corrosion), and clean all related connectors. Make sure all fuses are good. Not sure anything special about 500's, but the usual suspects include the regulator, broken wiring, any related solenoids, etc.
Scootimus
02-26-2009, 12:34 AM
I'm gonna take the battery up to advance and have them test it. I know that if the bike is just at idle the system doesn't put out enough juice to keep it running and I didn't try holding it at 8k and disconnecting the cables to see if it would stay running.
I know that if the bike is just at idle the system doesn't put out enough juice to keep it running
:chin:
...all kinds of combustion engines (from lawnmowers to MotoGP bikes) run/idle just fine as long as the charging system is healthy, so I'm a bit skeptical about the 500 being an exception.
Scootimus
02-26-2009, 01:14 AM
Well, I'll start with the battery check first and making sure the terminals are not corroded. Then if that doesn't work, I'll move on to the regulato/rectifier.
mccutch2u
02-26-2009, 08:58 AM
start the bike then attach a volt meter to the pos and neg terminals...........should get from 13.5 - 14v steady it may read a hair low at idle but should be within those voltages
regulator- if the voltage is really high and isn't consistant
this is only good if you have a good battery fully charged a dead battry can screw with the system
also what year and how long did it sit?
they had a problem with the glue on the stators failing after time
mccutch2u
02-26-2009, 08:59 AM
if it has been sitting for any amount of time you are better of just replacing the battery
Scootimus
02-26-2009, 10:19 AM
To be honest I don't know how long it sat. It's an 07 with 3200miles. It's been wrecked and I got it from the body shop that probably towed it or whatever. Hell for $500 I wasn't going to complain too much. I was surprised it even started.
Scootimus
02-26-2009, 10:21 AM
$500 is a steal :wtg:
For a hopeful track bike, yeah!
MrDude_1
02-26-2009, 10:24 AM
:chin:
...all kinds of combustion engines (from lawnmowers to MotoGP bikes) run/idle just fine as long as the charging system is healthy, so I'm a bit skeptical about the 500 being an exception.
except when it has a absolutly dead battery attached..
then, some charging systems wont start.. others, like this bike, might be "shorted out" by the battery.. and that can cause them to become overtaxed..
some regulators need the battery before they start working, some ECUs need battery power.. etc...
Sure, some, but all that has to be done is to take the battery out of the loop.
Scootimus
02-26-2009, 11:32 AM
Sure, some, but all that has to be done is to take the battery out of the loop.
Yeah see, I didn't think to just plain disconnect the battery. I've been use to car systems that will run with a dead battery. After I finish lunch I'll be heading over and playing with it some more.
thehammer69
02-26-2009, 12:40 PM
:chin:
...all kinds of combustion engines (from lawnmowers to MotoGP bikes) run/idle just fine as long as the charging system is healthy, so I'm a bit skeptical about the 500 being an exception.
Mike, I can remember years ago (around 1991) cruising sport bikes on the Myrtle Beach strip and then just having them die because all the idling in traffic was draining the battery because the alternators couldn't keep up with elctrical demand at hose low rpms. We would have to push start them and then drive over to hwy 17 and drive up and down it for a while to get the batterys charged back up.
thehammer69
02-26-2009, 12:43 PM
I should add that these were carburated backs back then. The only electrical loads were basically the CDI box and the lights. They didn't have the extra load of an ECM and all the other fuel injection electrical loads.
Scootimus
02-26-2009, 12:47 PM
I should add that these were carburated backs back then. The only electrical loads were basically the CDI box and the lights. They didn't have the extra load of an ECM and all the other fuel injection electrical loads.
Well this is a carbed bike so none of the fancy stuff on it. Well it's off to get some oil, filter, and a battery to play with.
mccutch2u
02-26-2009, 02:00 PM
here are my recommendations:
new battery
drain the fuel bowls
replace old gas with fresh
change the oil
plugs
and you should be fine
they may have fixed the stator problem seeing that it is an 07
alot of guys back in the day would throw f2(3) front ends on them with zx6 rear swing arm and suspension and roll out
i have seen plenty of people with them on the track
I know where there is one for cheap if he still has it
Scootimus
02-26-2009, 10:46 PM
I got the battery today but didn't have time to install it. With all the recommended set-up procedures it takes like 6-8 hours. I should be able to slap it in tomorrow.
I did change the oil and filter. Bike seems to run good even with the gas that is in it but I plan on draining it all out and replacing with new.
Hooked the bike up to my truck battery to fire it up and after it warmed up I put a meter on it and it was reading between 13.90 to 14.05 but of course as soon as I take the cables off the battery the bike would shut off.
Another question I have is if I do put a new battery in the bike and the regulator/rectifier is not working properly how long would you think that battery would last before the bike would die?
mccutch2u
02-26-2009, 10:53 PM
i would guess an hour or so depends on amp draw............fan, lights etc etc
fasterthanyours
02-27-2009, 06:52 AM
Scott,
You should probably check the air hose feed out the top of the air box ;)
Scootimus
02-27-2009, 08:47 AM
Scott,
You should probably check the air hose feed out the top of the air box ;)
:lol: I really doubt that has anything to do with the battery.
Doubt leads to fear, fear leads to anger, anger leads to hate, hate leads to suffering!
:p
Scootimus
02-27-2009, 08:56 AM
And suffering leads people to going postal!
And suffering leads people to going postal!
...or worse... buying Hondas! :eek:
:lmao:
Scootimus
02-27-2009, 09:03 AM
...or worse... buying Hondas! :eek:
:lmao:
You said the H word! :puke:
fasterthanyours
02-27-2009, 10:36 AM
Suffering leads to taking it to the Yamaha Dealer on Dorchester LOL
Scootimus
02-27-2009, 08:58 PM
Well I put the new battery in and of course it fired right up. While idling at @1200rpm the voltage ranged from 14.4 to 14.5. Before I put the battery in it registered 13.94 so to me it appears the charging system is working properly. Oh yeah, this was all without the headlight attached since the fairing stay and front fairing are pretty much toast.
mccutch2u
02-27-2009, 10:14 PM
sounds lik you are good to go but you may still want to change out that gas if it has been sitting for a while especially with the new shit i mean ethanol
fasterthanyours
02-27-2009, 11:27 PM
I'd at least replace the filter.
Scott, Randy's got one of those clean boxes if you want to flush out the tank. He could probably do it for you. It uses some kind of cleaning fluid, I can't think of the name of it right now.
Scootimus
02-28-2009, 12:01 AM
I think for now i'm just going to drain and clean it, probably just use the gas in the mower.
the_MAC
03-18-2009, 11:36 PM
i'll just assume that your bike is fixed after clocking you at a 1:28.6 at roebling. pretty impressive for a 35hp bike...
Scootimus
03-19-2009, 02:47 AM
i'll just assume that your bike is fixed after clocking you at a 1:28.6 at roebling. pretty impressive for a 35hp bike...
That would be affirmative! :yeah:
dizzyg44
03-19-2009, 07:01 PM
uhm, I think you might have the number transposed on that HP figure, unless his engine is completely F'ed.
the EX500 was low 50's, much more then the Gs500's
I kinda of miss mine, it took me all over germany.
Scootimus
03-19-2009, 07:58 PM
It appears you are correct, 50.2 bhp @ 9250rpms. Torque is in the low 30's. Still that's a big dis-advantage to the inline 4's that were there. It was a blast to ride the slow bike fast, just need to work on being a little faster!
dizzyg44
03-19-2009, 08:15 PM
If you want to get a hair more out of it, drill a 1 inch on the side of the airbox opposite the current hole.
For ease of valve maintenance (if not done already) get rid of and cap off the emissions crap running from the airbox to the engine, It's sole purpose is to draw fresh air into the exhaust to burn off unburnt fuel. In turn this will elimate the annoying popping on deceleration if you are using aftermarket exhaust.
If they still make them, see if you can come across Sarachu racing exhaust (made in brazil), they are uber light but really loud and will give you dramatic ground clearance improvements over the stock boat anchors.
If you want to get drastic, you can get a little bit more power getting rid of the base gasket.
Tires, I don't know if Maxxis is still around but the maxxis sport tires stuck like snot and would last all season for half the cost of a set of anything else for this bike.
It's a shame the EX500riders.com forum is no more, it was an invaluable resource. Especially the member FOG (Fast Old Guy)
unfast1
03-19-2009, 08:19 PM
It appears you are correct, 50.2 bhp @ 9250rpms. Torque is in the low 30's. Still that's a big dis-advantage to the inline 4's that were there. It was a blast to ride the slow bike fast, just need to work on being a little faster!
I feel ya brother.
Scootimus
03-19-2009, 08:20 PM
Thanks Dizzy, I will have to do some more investigative research into some of these mods. I didn't have any problems dragging the exhaust but the foot pegs were a problem until Mac told me to get my damn head and shoulders off the bike a little more.
dizzyg44
03-19-2009, 08:24 PM
Sweet, it looks as if the sarachu's are still made and now available in carbon fibre.
The aluminums I had were approx 6 lbs combined versus like 11 lbs for one stock canister.
The are however obnoxiously loud
http://www.classicbikes.com/sarachu.html
Scootimus
03-19-2009, 08:33 PM
Well I'm not looking for obnoxiously loud but it was funny sitting there while Kenny went riding by. You couldn't even hear the thing til after he went by. Not even WOT down the straight. Of course at the moment my bike budget is in the negative column.
dizzyg44
03-19-2009, 08:40 PM
Also, late 80s- early 90's ZX6E handle bar risers are a direct bolt on, giving a bit more rearward sweep and much lower with no clearance problems anywhere.
If you have any questions on the little Ninja 1/2R let me know, damn I probably did so much to mine that it was almost unrecognizable as an EX500
Right before I got rid of her, currently wearing an old Yoshimura 2n1, Check out the Fox Shock
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a87/dizzyg44/EX500/HPIM0458.jpg
http://s9.photobucket.com/albums/a87/dizzyg44/EX500/
Scootimus
03-19-2009, 08:48 PM
As mine is now the right handle bar hits the tank before it hits the lock. The left isn't far from the tank. I'm sure when I'm ready to sit diwn and talk shop I will give you a ring. maybe I can buy ya a beer.
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